Medieval Welsh & Marcher Lords: prepping the armies

The Day the Music Died...

The tune of Welsh Independence, that is!         from: [CLICK] 

With a battle in mind, I had to start looking at the bunch of figures that were not yet finished, and start planning the Units that would fight on the table. This means I need to decide on how many units per player, and how many per foot width of table.

POINT 1: One must figure out how many people are playing, how many units are needed per person for an interesting game.  If you don't want much maneuvering, you need lots of units flanked by terrain that confines the space and forces more straight-up fighting. In general, people need at least 3-4 units, so that if a bit of misfortune happens to a couple they still have toys to play with.

POINT 2: There is a direct measured relationship between table space and unit sizes.  I'm planning a 9' x 3' [really 5'] table, with a center 3' battle space. My unit bases are 5x2.5" with 1-2 per unit, which works out to about 6" width per unit.  Ergo I can fit 18 units side by side and fill a space.  As the OHW scenarios from last post do have some significant terrain, the actual clear maneuver space in the center of the board is only 5.5'!  See below:

The two woods are 2 square feet total, and the bog [circle in center] is an impassible 6" terrain piece. The River [left] is also impassible except at the bridge [and the marked ford doesn't exist - it is actually off the South edge of the board] so the 8" or so to the battlefield West is just to stage troops to attack across the bridge, or support the attack with shooting.

At 5.5', the center portion of the board accommodates 11 Units in the open, with 4 additional units in the woods, which is restricted to Unformed troops. Both sides do have them, however, they are entirely small units of archers.

--> Overall, I'd say that a good troop density is 4-5 Units per scenario, i.e. per 3' width of the table. This leaves the option to deploy the larger units 2-bases wide if desired, some maneuver room, and also the possibility to deploy in depth.

Overall, I'm looking at about 12-15 units per side, total of 24-30 Units.

At present, I am well short of that number.  Depending on if the units are 1 or 2 bases, I need at least another 5-10 bases.

Looking at the large number of "almost done" units, I have about 3 bases of Dark Ages Welsh spearmen, 3 bases of Medieval Welsh spearmen, and 6 bases of Welsh archers.  I also have 8 bases of Anglo-Saxon heavy infantry. All the figures [except the archers] are at the same stage: the figs are painted, but they need spears and shields to be painted and attached. Then they need to be sealed, based and flocked.  I like the idea of heavy infantry clashes, as they are satisfying to gamers who enjoy lining units up and bashing heads.

I start to work on the Anglo-Saxons. Previously, I painted the back of the shields, mounted them, then painted the metal parts of the shields.  Now, I need to clean up where the black / metallic paint encroached into the painted leather covering of the shield, so a bunch of edging needs to be done, basically.

Below, over 120 figs, with shield inspiration above, just to help me figure out the colors later.  All the figs pictured here are from Old Glory 25s - great, animated figs!

To get the shields white, I needed to use a Base White which has more pigment - this gave faster coverage. To blend things a bit, I used Vallejo Off-white.

Below, these metal colors need to be cleaned up and made white, preparing for a color of some sort to follow; likely bright colors, so the metallic paint would show through and not look good.

After cleanup, you can see the slight contrast of the base white, the original white primer, and the off-white.  I actually want this because I like the look of the shield being a bit weathered and the color NOT being consistent. This inspiration comes from the Little Big Men Studio transfer images I printed out, just for ideas.

As you can see, their shields look like they've been outside and on campaign a bit!

Some of the shields are very nicely sculpted; you can see that the below shield on left and right has the leather cover overlapping the edge and being nailed down on the back side inner edge.  So I paint that white also.

The center fig has what is most likely a leather strip reinforcing the edge and nailed in - I painted this to be a metal edge, which was less common, but did exist.

Below, I am using my trusty wet palette to keep the paint flowing as it will take at least an hour to paint all these shields white - I don't want the paint can open as it will start to dry out. Also, it makes it easy to blend shades.

These shields were primed grey. They also have no sculpting on the interior to indicate that they are wood.  I use a brush with a bit of extra wet paint on it to create fake wood lines.  It is very fast - just a long toothpick in the center hole to hold it still, and two quick wet swipes with a brush is usually enough.  

A second coat would make them solidly the brown color and it faux grain would disappear. 

I then take an X-acto blade and scrape down to the bare metal on the contact points between the shields and the hands / arms / clothes where the shield will touch:

As I'm a bit short on shields, I go to my craft store bag of round wood discs and grab 20 small ones, then dremel out a concave recess to help glue it to the fig.

Then I paint the interior side of the shields, then I paint the exterior with a thin coat of color, which allows the wood grain to show through. These shields were bought at the "Snorri Used Shield Shop" are are low-budget, no leather covering, some paint thrown on to preserve the raw wood from wet.

As all that was drying, I began to get a better idea of the time involved, so gave all the Welsh that needed them spears and shields. I then popped the archers off their craft sticks [the Elmer's glue dries brittle, allowing for easy removal].

I then checked and realized I needed more uni-bases with contour  [an 8-part blog post series CLICK], so I cut up strips of cardboard [two different thicknesses] and made little undulations and hills, gluing them with Elmers.

While the cardboard was drying, I popped the spearmen off their craft sticks. I usually just bend or twist the stick, and they start to come off.

I then glued them onto the uni-base in little dioramas. In this case, I was putting 12 figs per base, which makes them "loose medium infantry" in WRG basing terms. There is enough space to give an interesting story to each base.

Having done the same with the archers, I then sculpted the bases with Elmer's wood fill to hide the cardboard and the figures metal base. When it was mostly dry, I painted the entire top in a color sample I had made at Lowe's, which matches the bases and the table.

I tried a darker color craft paint, but it didn't look right and contrasted too sharply with the wood fill light tan under it, so I ended up painting that over.

I spread cheap white glue [wetter and thinner than Elmers] around on the base so it is mostly covered, then dip the base in my flocking mix, for below result.

These also had some shrubbery glued on for added effect.

Around mid-week, I realized I would not have time for the Anglo-Saxon shields, so I concentrated on the Welsh to try and get them done for Saturday's big game!

Next post - the game itself!

Re-Basing [8] the long slog is ending...!

Time for some more re-basing...but it is slowly ending as there's not a lot of bases left of my old Medieval Warfare / DBA stuff! These are double-based elements of Welsh spearmen [x] or Auxilia, depending on rules and edition. They definitely looked cooler as double-based elements, but they'll look even better as quadruple-based elements of 12-15 depending on how I can fit them in. First there's the dodgy bit of removal - I use a chisel and gentle taps.


Next, I take the figs and place the first rank carefully on the contoured base - using pvc glue.


Then I carefully fill in all the gaps with wood fill - this stuff's a bit gritty and I like it.


Then I place the second rank figs on into the wet putty - just requires a little re-shaping is all, as the fig smooshes the putty to the side. A small damp brush gets it all settled quickly.


Takes a bit to get them fit in there, but I like how they look, and it is part of the fun for me!


Back view - always hard to get them just right...and looking "natural". You know, like their fighting casually but not acting, sort of the right balance of toy soldier and real...



I was mostly able to obey my rule with these bases, and get the entire figure, including the spears, within the confines of the base. The lens distorts it a bit, but they are 90% inside.


Flash...


No flash...

Looking good - ready for a fight except they need to dry overnight! Well, and brown paint on the ground...and a few touch-ups here and there from past damage [mostly protected by their polyeurythane coating, I may add, aka The Miracle Dip].

So this is two more Units of Welsh Freemen ready for Saturday. As they look a bit distinct, they will be a nice addition, together, to either force. They can be South Welsh spearmen who still fight in closer order due to the more open terrain, or Welsh feudal serfs of a Marcher Lord...lots of possibilities, but most importantly easy to use on the table.

Future victim...my Scots Schiltron from DBA years. Eight stands of 4-figs for Close Order Units, blah blah blah blah. Glad I don't do that anymore - they just need to look cool! Anyway, there are some real Scot figs in it, and mercenary Irish for the Bruce's campaign in Ireland. I can get at least one unit of Freemen out of it, and one unit of Kerns - Brigans, Very happy with how these armies are looking, and the rules are playing, I may add!

Basing Part [7]: Mass Rebasing!

Basing, basing and re-basing - the last for this bunch!

above: over halfway thru a big drive to re-base the armies

With lots of progress on my rules, and having played with single-bases for some time it is time to finish re-basing many of the figures. It took a while to work out the game mechanics for a single, solid base but I'm certain it will work. There's no doubt for me that 25mm is my "army scale" for larger boards and venues [I'll keep my 15mm Greeks and Romans/Gauls for small table games], and no doubt that the single large base is sturdier, safer, and easier to handle.

Below you can see how I shape the wood fill up into and against the corrugated cardboard on which the figs sit. You can also see how raised and solid the base itself is. As this is a continuation of previous posts HERE, in these posts, I won't repeat all the reasoning behind and creation of these big bases. It is important, I think, to work the 'fill in against the holes of the cardboard, so the weaker edges are braced.


Again, the fill is being pushed into the gaps - sometimes I removed a figure or two to easily access the other figs. Do NOT use superglue to put figs on bases! If you use Elmer's, you will be able to remove and adjust them pretty easily. Note the gap behind the higher figs that will be filled up. There's some height to this hill, but it seems like it'll work out.


Here are three figs that were removed to access the others easily. I'll get the 'fill in there and then re-glue them when the base is mostly done. Then they will dry with all the rest.


I occasionally had to add water [or leave exposed] the wood fill itself so I could get it wet and thin enough to use easily, but not too drippy. This is more of a "process as you go along" than a "one and done" sort of thing. Just add water whenever it is getting a bit stiff and then stir with an old brush handle, and you'll be fine.

Below, I am over the hump, and for a change of pace I'm testing the positioning of the Byzantine Scutatoi, testing how they fit together and look "natural". This takes a few minutes, but is one of my favorite parts of basing little dioramas.


Below. you can see how the back rank of Scutatoi are lining up. The guy on the right is providing a little drama by reacting to a threat. Once these fellows are mostly dry, about 45 minutes, I do most of the wood fill and am ready for the front rank, posed above them.


And here you see the result. The officer and rankers are in the front, and there's a nice feel of a solid infantry "block" yet they have some character and a touch of drama. One can feel they are holding a small rise in the face of the enemy, relying on shields and cohesion.


The forces massed, and organized for battle. Each row has six units, representing my thoughts on forces that should match up well for a "fair fight" and intro to the rules. I will use some cheap crayola brown paint to wash the bases as there's no time to flock them.


Below, the tools I used: Elmers Glue, Elmers Pro-bond Wood fill, old brushes [two about a 1/4" / 1cm, two smaller, one fine, the latter ones to work the 'fill in between the stands], all for basing. To remove figs from the old stands; the heavy [sharp] wood chisel, X-acto blade, wire snips, and some super-glue to make repairs for bits that came loose in the process.


It's been a bit of a saga itself, but I'm very happy with where the rules, the rule mechanics, and the craft work of basing are all coming together. I'll have a game that is mechanically easy to pick up, filled with subtle tactics and tactical choices, and the Units themselves will also quicken the game by being easy to handle. Plus, they will look great and be safer to handle and more resilient against scraping and breakage. Game on!

The next post will be about flocking - I want to learn some skills, including working with some rocks and fake water, so give each army a distinct basing scheme related to the terrain of their home country.

25 to "Heroic 28" Figure Comparisons

The Usual Suspects, in a line-up

L->R: Irregular, Soldier and Swords, Old Glory, Black Tree, GW, Foundry

Various projects demand various figs and approaches if you've interests in the aesthetics of the hobby [some aren't...my first game club had a guy who used ceiling tiles as hills, no paint, nothing, white side up or brown side up, mixed!]. Having been at this for over 30 years, I've definitely developed some preferences and approaches.

Figure size, bulk, and sculpting style are all factors that I take into accounts with various projects. Sometimes the projects itself is figure - driven, or even fluff - driven. More often it is history and game play driven. However, the aesthetic of the figs themselves matters to me.

Realism verses a style and paintability all come into play with my figure collection. A while back, I discovered some Black Tree Design figs in my collection, posted HERE, and had not only forgotten they existed but what they were! I like the big monsters, and as I get older bigger figs are better figs, generally speaking. I bought more of them from BTD with the intent to do either some medieval skirmishing with them, or build them up into a Kings of War army. I got stymied on the mounted knights, however - BTD didn't have a great selection of great sculpts. I checked into GW Bretonnians, and thought they might do the trick but didn't have any luck trading for them. Then the KoW group sort of died down and I got busy and the idea of building and painting an army of any sort was ludicrous. 

The other day, I wandered into the FLGS and lo and behold was an old WHF box set with Bretonnians and Lizardmen, in good shape, for $40. I did some math in my head and couldn't see how I could lose on the deal, even if I sold it for parts.

Indeed, the Bretonnians are a good matchup for those figs. Here's some size comparisons that I think will be helpful against some well-known manufacturers:


L->R: Irregular, Soldier and Swords, Old Glory, Black Tree, GW, Foundry. The Foundry and OG are comparable, altho the face on the OG is exaggerated for ease of painting. The GW plastic Bretonnian is very nice work by a Perry Brother. The BTD is clearly the largest in height [just a hair taller than GW] and bulk. The ruler sits on the GW bases. Heights of model from sole of foot to highest point, excluding any base, are;
Irregular - 25mm
S&S - 26mm [plus some bulk]
OG - 28mm
BTD - 32mm
GW - 30mm
Foundry - 28mm
Bulk is hard to measure. Biggest is BTD then GW, OG, Foundry, S&S, and Irregular last.

Blurry close-up of the BTD City Guard and Bretonnian archer. Below the same in focus:

Well, what if you want to mix up the figs you've acquired in various places?

Archer comparison: BTD, Foundry, Wargames Inc, GW. Below same figs.

Moving around the ruler here for you.



Now to horse! The mounted knights are the centerpiece of any medieval army, even if the country is fictitious. Cavalry are always tough to compare since you have to compare BOTH the horse and the rider. Horses are often down-sized due to cost. There's also the issue of breeding big horses for various ers - some horses really were much larger than others! How you mix and match is up to you, but here's some data to help you decide:

New Fireforge Teutonic Knight horse on left, old GW Bretonnian horse on right. The GW sculpt is noticeably 3-4mm taller, and much bulkier. A horse expert will have to tell you if it is accurate or not!

Help! I'm being chased by a monster knight from the abyss! GW v. Old Glory 25s.

OK, even setting aside the funny hat, the GW sculpt is a good 3-5mm highter and much bulkier. They Might Be Giants...


Old Glory 25s v. Fireforge 28mm figs. Horse is larger, bulkier.


No ruler - just visual impact.


Finally, comparison of horses heads. 

So, to each his own, but the bulk and style have almost as much to do with how things look together as anything else. Yes, there is definitely a size issue as one goes up the ladder from Irregular 25s to BTD. But the eye sees bulk and other sculpting style issues as quickly as mere height. Yes, people ARE different heights - and different bulks - but sculptors work to a series and keep the comparable realism within the sculpting project.

My veridict:

• I can definitely use Bretonnian knights with the BTD figures - in fact, I can't find anything else that compares. These are good for a medieval / fantasy skirmish project.
• I'd keep Old Glory 25s together in units. To me, they are the new 15mm! They look great together, are dynamic, easy to paint and inexpensive. Why go 15 if you can go 25 for almost the same price for a unit?
• I'd mix Foundry and Wargames Inc together without any hesitation, they're all 25s.

Hope this is useful for you and your decision making, and Happy Gaming!